Flavor Agent A-Z,”N for Nutmeg”

 

In my minty moments from last week, I noted that we all have “sensory themes” that run through our lives; sights, scents and tastes that vividly re-capture a moment in time with thrilling accuracy. My Flavor Agent “M for Mint” is truly one of those sensory triggers for me as is this week’s theme; nutmeg.

In hosting a recent celebrity chef battle, I worked with “Master of Mint”, Persian- American Chef Hoss Zare who battled Chef Staffan Terje of Perbacco and Barbacco. Chef Terje pictured here with sous-chef Alex, I dare say is “Master of Nutmeg” by birth and by training. I surprised Chef Terje, a Swedish-American when introducing the chefs by breaking out my Swedish. Yes, after living in Sweden for just one year in 1985, I can still “prata” with the “Svenska manniskor”. Go figure…

My point being that my favorite nutmeg memoires as well as Staffan’s are all rolled up into our mutual favorite “Svenska Köttbullar med Lingonsylt”, the succulent, crave-inducing Swedish Meatballs that I will feature on Friday. As a Swede and a highly respected expert on Italian cooking, chef Terje qualifies as a certified nutmeg aficionado.

Nutmeg is the nut of a tree native to the Moluccas, the Indonesian “Spice Islands”. The seed is oval, about an inch long and is covered by a red, lacy filigree that is ground into the spice called mace. Both nutmeg and mace are magnificently perfumed, sweet and nutty, with mace being a bit stronger. Mace is ground, nutmeg is most often pre-ground but most glorious freshly ground. The aromatic oils lose flavor so fast, yet the whole seed can last for a year or more. I buy a jar that contains about 7 whole, you can also buy just a few in bulk at a store such as Whole Foods.

Grate fresh with a special nutmeg grater, a Microplane or I even use my Zyliss cheese grater. I use a lot of nutmeg… 

 

 

 

 

 

Nutmeg is strong, so while I advocate using it in many, many dishes such as seasoning white and cheese sauces, any ricotta mixture, pasta dishes, baking, dessert garnishing, beverage garnishing and so much more, do use restraint. The French concept “soupçon, or a “suspicion” of the flavor is usually the goal except in a few desserts and drinks. You know, that effect of tasting something with a wonderful underlying flavor that makes you go, “Hmmm?” as you try and figure it out. A favorite nutmeg moment for me was eating dinner with a Dutch family when I was a kid. The green beans were incredible, I had no idea what was going on! The Dutch season many vegetables such as cauliflower, squash and green vegetables with fresh nutmeg. It was a revelation.

French, Italian and Scandinavian cooking use nutmeg in this way. As it is October, my month of pumpkin passion, try my Pumpkin Gnocchi recipe elevated with fresh nutmeg and wild fennel buds.

Greek, Indian and Caribbean cooking traditionally used nutmeg in more aggressive quantities as it acts as a preservative in the hot climates. Here is my Jamaican Jerk Marinade with a lot of nutmeg punch.

Speaking of punch, try these nutmeg beverages, or this easy peach cobbler. Oh, egg nog; how I love thee.

Check back Friday for more nutmeg goodness and Scandi-cooking with the rightfully famous “Swedish Meatballs”.

Her det så bra!

 

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